The Johnson-Evinrude Workshop manual downloads for the above listed models describes the service procedures for the complete vehicle. Follow the Maintenance Schedule recommendations to ensure that the outboard is in peak operating condition. Performing the scheduled maintenance is very important. It compensates for the initial wear that occurs during the life of the outboard motor.All chapters in the Workshop Manual apply to the whole vehicle and illustrates procedures for removal/installation of components that are in detailed step-by-step fashion.Most all Workshop manual chapters start with an assembly or system illustration, diagrams, exploded parts view, pictures, service information and troubleshooting for the section. The subsequent pages give detailed procedures. PROBLEM 1: ENGINE TURNS OVER BUT WILL NOTSTART OR STARTS HARD WHENCOLDPossible Cause Corrective ActionImproper startingprocedure.Check procedure, asoutlined in “Operationand MaintenanceManual.”Fuel tank empty;improperly mixed fuel;contaminants (water,dirt, etc.) in fuel.Check fuel in fuel tankand replace or add.Fuel tank air vent closedor restricted.Air vent must be openand free fromcontaminants.A pinched or restrictedfuel line.Check, and replace asneeded.Dirty or restricted fuelfilter.Check, replace or clean.Enrichener valve notoperating.Check enrichenersystem. (Refer to“Enrichener System”following.)An inlet needle (incarburetor) that is stuckopen or closed.

(Aneedle stuck open, willcause a floodingcondition. A needle stuckclosed, will prevent fuelfrom entering carburetor.)Remove, clean, orreplace.Anti-Siphon valverestricting fuel flow.Refer to “Checking forRestricted Fuel Flowcaused by Anti-SiphonValves”, following.See “Checking for Restricted Fuel Flow causedby Anti-Siphon Valves”, page 3A-1.PROBLEM: ENGINE FLOODSPossible Cause Corrective ActionDirt or foreign particlesare preventing inletneedle from seating.Flush out inlet seat andclean inlet needle.Worn inlet needle. Replace.Punctured float. Replace.Incorrect float setting. Reset float.PROBLEM: ENGINE RUNS TOO LEANPossible Cause Corrective ActionCarburetor is loose. Airleaks past mixingchamber cover.Tighten bolts securely.Tighten cover or replacegasket.Fuel level too low. Reset float level.Clogged high speed jet.

Check and clean.Restricted fuel flow tocarburetor.Check fuel lines andfilter(s) for restrictedflow.Incorrect high speed jet. Refer to main jet chartand replace with properjet.Idle mixture set toolean.Adjust to run richener.Air leakage into fuelsystem.Check fuel lineconnections, hoseclamps, fuel pump, andfuel outlet tube (locatedin fuel tank) for loosefittings.Anti-Siphon valverestricting fuel flow.Refer to “Checking forrestricted fuel flowcaused by Anti-Siphonvalves.”PROBLEM: ENGINE RUNS TOO RICHPossible Cause Corrective ActionFuel level too high. Reset float to correctlevel.Carburetor floods.

Brand new, genuine Johnson/Evinrude OMC (BRP) Binnacle (top mount) remote control assembly. Single lever binnacle control with trim. Standard features include: BRP styling and design, improved throttle and shift control, easy toggle trim switch, simplified cable installation, adjustable throttle friction, push-button neutral warm up, and start-in-gear prevention. From the OMC Recreational Outboard Servie Manual, Section 9 - Remote Control, Page 9-5. To adjust control handle friction, start engine and move the control handle to the forward throttle range. Apply just enough friction to allow easy movement in the forward throttle range, yet not allow vibration to change the throttle setting.

See preceding “EngineFloods”Idle nozzle air holesplugged.Blow out withcompressed air.Restricted air flow. Check cowl air inlet andcarburetor forobstructions.Main Fuel Jet loose.

(click pictures belowto enlarge)DiagramObsoleteOutboardsbyColumn # 4Rigging Old OMC Outboardsfor Remote control(Part 1 - shift and throttle functions)Back in 2001 I wrote an article for Duckworks entitled “Primer OnOld Outboards,” In which I stated my opinion that the best candidatesfor cheap outboard power were the OMC-built outboards manufacturedfrom about 1955 until the early ‘70s. Although this articleis no longer available on the website, it is.One of the many reasons that I consider this series of outboards as goodcandidates for cheap power is their adaptability to remote control, andalso the availability of the necessary hardware. Remote control boxes andrelated hardware are often seen for sale at swap meets, on outboard motoronline bulletin boards, and also on online auction sites. Although Igenerally recommend against obtaining one’s old outboard motor hardware onthe auction sites, if you know what you are buying, you can sometimesswing a good deal. One purpose of this article is to make one an informedbuyer of old OMC remote control hardware.The “old-style” two-lever (short lever for shift; long lever for throttle)control box is often seen offered for sale, and will usually be thecheapest box to purchase.

It came in several colors and was fitted withlabels for either Johnson or Evinrude; or for the Gale division engines,such as Sea King or Sea Bee, the label read “Bosun.” These boxes areidentical, except for the label, and will work with any of the abovebrands. As research for this article, I recently purchased a complete (Iwill get to what I mean by “complete) Bosun control box on e-bay for$29.99 including the shipping. I have seen similar boxes go for $50.00 to$60.00 which I consider to be high. At swap meets I will buy such boxes ifthey are $30.00 or less. This same style box was also available in a (4)lever version for twin engines.

These are not often seen and usually bringa fairly high price, although the one I saw sell on e-bay for $129.00 wasgreatly overpriced, especially since it may not have been complete.In the early-60’s the styling of the box was changed to a more“squared-off” look, although the boxes continued to function the same.Neither of these styles of control boxes has any provision for key-startswitch, power trim, remote choke, etc. They simply control shift andthrottle, and the other items, if present, where controlled from a dashpanelIf I was going to buy a box that I could not examine, such as on e-bay, Iwould not buy one that did not still have the push-pull cables attached toit. The condition of the cables is not material; chances are they are thewrong length for your boat anyway, and new cables are readily availableand dirt cheap. But you do want the cables present and attached to thebox, because if the cables are missing, there is a good chance that partof the box is also missing. The bottoms of the levers are sector gears (asegment of a round gear) that engage a rack (flat plastic rectangle withgear teeth. This rack is attached to the inner wire of the push-pullcontrol cables with tiny allen-head screws which usually corrode.

If oneis removing the cables from a box and one does not have the proper sizeallen wrench, or the allen screws are corroded, there is a temptation tosimply remove the cables with the racks attached. Which means that partof the box has been left attached to the cables and if you only get thebox, you will not have a complete box. If you can physically examine thebox, you can check for the presence of the racks. If all you have to go onis a photo, however, the presence of the cables still attached to the boxis your best assurance that the racks are still in place.Another reason that you want those cables, even if they are bad, is forthe fittings that attach the cables to the outboard. As I said, the cablesare dirt cheap. The end-fittings are not. Cables that have a bare wire onthe motor-end are missing the attachment fittings, and I do not considersuch a box to be complete box.

Once adjusted, these fittings can deattached to and detached from the engine in a matter of seconds.As for the outboard itself, all OMC outboards from 5 ½ hp to 40 hp madefrom about 1955 to the early ‘60s come equipped to take remote controlswith a minimum of hardware. Usually all that is needed is a pair of whatOMC called “locks,” Which were small sheet metal forks which screwed tothe cowling of the engine. The outer sheath of the control cables was heldby these locks, while the cable end fittings had quick connectors toattach to either the shift lever on the Starboard side of the outboard, orto a throttle lever on the port side. I usually do not expect these locksto be included with a remote control box, but they are common enough atswap meets, and cheap enough to go to a dealer for, if you have to.

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But Ihave often seen them already on engines offered for sale. Depending uponyour engine model and how it is equipped, and on the type of cable lockthat you Can obtain, you might have to fabricate a small mounting blockfor the lock for the shift cable, which could be made from hardwood.OMC recommended that the “friction disk” be removed from the twist grip inorder to lessen the loads on the throttle control, when remote controlswere installed. The twist grip can be removed by removing the singlescrew that retains it.

Fish the disc and the disc spring out from insidethe grip, and reattach the grip. There will now be much less friction onthe throttle linkage. Incidentally, reattaching the grip with the disc andthe spring in place can take some doing, since there are tabs and ‘flats”on the grip shaft which have to be aligned.Once you get into the 60’s some of the “low-profile” engines, such as the6 hp and the 9 ½ hp, need special adapters in order to hook up thecontrols. These adapters, some of which are quite elaborate, can bedifficult to find. Hooking up controls to a ’64 10 hp, therefore, is mucheasier and cheaper than hooking up controls to a ’65 91/2 The 18’s. 20’s,25’s, 28’s, 33’s, and the mechanical-shift 40’s, however, don’t needspecial adapters.Generally speaking, I recommend avoiding the “low profile” engines Anyway,because they are difficult to work on, compared to a standard engine.With a complete control box, new cables of the correct length for theboat, a good set of cable end fittings and cable sheath locks, you nowhave all you need to control the throttle and shift on a manually-startedold OMC outboard.

But how do you “kill” the engine from the controlstation? OMC engines up until the late ‘50s did not come with killswitches; they were shut down by either choking the engine or closing thethrottle (retarding the throttle as far as it would go would kill theengine.) That is how I have my 1957 Johnson 18 hp set-up on my-designedpower skiff; if Ipull the throttle all the way back, the engine dies. It works fine for mebut others can’t get used to it, and want the engine to remain runnning atidle speed if the throttle lever is jerked back. Starting in the late‘50s, OMC started to install anon the remote control throttle lever on thePort-side of the engine. This screw could be used to limit the travel ofthe throttle lever so that the Engine would remain running if the leverwas retarded as far as it would go. Of course, then you need another wayof stopping the engine.About the same time that the idle speed limit screws started appearing,one also saw “shut-down’ buttons start to appear on these engines. All theengines we are talking about here are two-cylinder, with a set of breakerpoints for each cylinder.

The shut-down button had a wire connected toeach of the two sets of points, and when the button was pushed, the twowires were connected together, which shorted-out both sets of points andshut the engine down. It would be a simple matter to extend these twowires up to the remote control location and install a switch of yourchoice- spring-loaded momentary contact (such as a horn button), toggleswitch, or even key switch. Just keep in mind that, with these magnetoignition systems, when the switch is “open” the ignition is on, and whenthe switch is closed, the ignition is off.If your engine did not come with the shut-down button, you can still wirea remote shutdown by running two wires from the breaker points on themagneto, to a normally-open switch at the helm position.So now you have remote control over shift and throttle functions, and overEngine shut-down. For a manual start engine, that is about all you aregoing to have. If you have electric start, then the wiring gets a bit morecomplicated.

If you have one of the rare old Omc’s that not only haselectric start but also Battery charging, it starts to get reallycomplicated. But that is an article for another day.Next month, we'll look at remote steeringLater, dudes.